Gumbo Z'Herbes recipes from Leah Chase, Alma Glapion for Holy Thursday (2024)

What a special Holy Thursday! Not only did I get to eat Gumbo Z'Herbes once again at Dooky Chase, I have two recipes to share.

On the way back from the beloved Holy Thursday lunch at Dooky Chase this year, I was asked why Leah Chase made Gumbo Z'Herbes on the Thursday of Holy Week.

A recipe that Simonne Robinson sent me this morning explains. Her late mother, Alma Glapion, always made it as well.

"This is a traditional Holy Thursday meal for Creole families in New Orleans," Robinson says. "The Nine Greens represent the Nine Churches visited on Good Friday in remembrance of Jesus' walk to be crucified."

Many cook gumbo z'herbes on Good Friday, Robinson notes. "Mama cooked it on Holy Thursday because of the meat."

Alma Glapion's Gumbo Z'Herbes

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Meat:

1 pound pickle meat (pickled pork)

1 pound pork tails (or pork rib tips if you prefer)

Black pepper

Nine Greens:

1 bunch spinach

1 bunch mustard

1 bunch turnip greens (not bottoms)

1 bunch collards

1 bunch Swiss chard

1 bunch kale

1/2 head cabbage

1 bunch beet tops

1 bunch green onions

Seasoning:

Small amount of oil for saute

1 large or 2 small onions, chopped

6 to 8 toes garlic, minced

1 beef or chicken bouillon cube (add cube to the "soup" once it's all together and cooking)

Boil pickle meat and tails/tips in enough water to cover, sprinkled with black pepper. Do not add salt; the meat will be salty enough. Boil meat till tender. Reserve the water to salt the greens.

Wash all the greens well and then chop them into fine pieces. Place in a large Dutch oven with a cup of water (not from the meat) to start greens to cook on medium fire. Cover pot. Add more water as needed; the desired consistence of the greens is "soupy" but not enough water for it to be soup.

Saute onions and garlic to a glaze; add to greens and continue to cook while meat is boiling (as needed lower fire, add water).

When meat is tender, add to greens and cook on low for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Pepper to taste. One cooking spoon at a time, add the salty reserved water from the meat to the greens. If more salt is needed, add more reserved water or salt to taste.

Serve over rice with paneed pork chops, or fried chicken.

Chase notes that the number of greens in the gumbo indicates the number of friends that Holy Thursday customers will make in the next year. The chaurice may be my favorite thing in her gumbo.

Leah Chase's Gumbo Z'Herbes

Makes 8 to 10 servings

1 bunch mustard greens

1 bunch collard greens

1 bunch turnip greens

1 bunch watercress

1 bunch beet tops

1 bunch carrot tops

1 bunch spinach

1/2 head of lettuce

1/2 head of cabbage

2 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups)

4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped

5 tablespoons flour

1 pound smoked sausage

1 pound smoked ham

1 pound brisket, cubed

1 pound stew meat

1 pound hot sausage, chaurice

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon file powder

Steamed rice for serving

Clean greens under cold running water, making sure to pick out bad leaves and rinse away any grit. Chop greens coarsely and place in a 12-quart stockpot with the onions and garlic. Cover with water (about 1-1/2 gallons), bring mixture to a boil, reduce to simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

Strain greens and reserve liquid.

Cut all meats, except the chaurice, into bite-size pieces (about 1 inch pieces) and place in 12 quart stockpot with 2 cups of the reserved liquid. Steam over a high heat for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile cut the chaurice into bite size pieces and place in a skillet over high heat to render, about 10 minutes. Remove chaurice, keeping the grease in the skillet and set aside.

Blend greens in a food processor until pureed.

Heat the skillet of chaurice grease over a high heat and add flour. Cook roux until flour is cooked, about 5 minutes (does not have to be brown). Pour roux over meat mixture and stir to combine.

Add pureed greens to the meat in the stockpot and 2 quarts of the reserved liquid. Let simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes. Add chaurice, thyme and cayenne, stir well. Season and simmer for 40 minutes. Stir in file powder and remove from heat.

Serve over steamed rice.